Garlic Roasted Wild Pig Quarter

This is a really simple, pure expression of pork. I ordered some front and rear quarters and shoulders from pastured free roaming pigs raised at Slankers in Texas, and today prepared the rear quarter for some friends. Read the description of their pork on the site – apparently wild pigs from the area will sometimes just join up with their free roaming herds. Nice.

Anyway, the idea was simple. How does one showcase such a treasure without obfuscating the core experience? My approach was to cook is slowly and delicately with only the simplest of accoutrements.

I rubbed it the night before with equal parts salt, pepper, and brown sugar. In the morning I shook it off and wrapped it in aluminum foil, then stuck it in the Green Egg at 275 for 4 hours. I had just a couple chunks of mesquite in with the charcoal – I didn’t want the smoke to take over.

After 4 hours, I poured about 1/2c of olive oil mixed with 4  cloves of minced garlic, juice of 1 lemon, and a dash of salt over the roast and re-closed the aluminum foil and continued cooking.

An hour later, we have what you see above. The meat is falling off the bone tender and the lemon and garlic still have some of their brightness left, but have mellowed over the course of that hour to compliment the meat nicely. Wild pigs taste noticeably different than their commercially raised peers. It’s actually more like red meat – heartier and a bigger mouth-feel, coupled with a bit less, but more flavorful fat.

The guests arrive in a couple hours, and I can’t wait to get their take on it – especially in combination with the sous vide shoulder that I’m also serving. More on that later.

 

Smoked Short Ribs

Grass-fed short rib smoked for 6 hours at 225 over cherry & maple. Dry rub: ancho, chipotle, black pepper, salt. Smoky & spicy!

Paleo Shepherds Pie – Rob Style

First, a quote from my lovely companion H: “The best part is it doesn’t even taste paleo – it taste like m***f**ing mashed potatoes!”  I love her.

Yes, this was long overdue, and impossibly comforting. So comforting in fact that you wouldn’t believe how healthy it is. With grassfed beef, pastured heritage pork shoulder, and loads of vegetables, I just might be making this weekly. FULL POST

Grassfed Ribeye.

Tonight was a very special night – our first foray into steaks from the half cow we bought. I’ll admit, I was a bit nervous. Grassfed meat is leaner than its grain and hormone laden peers, and as we all know, marbling is what makes a great steak. I had heard that you needed to cook grassfed mean at a lower temperature, or flip it constantly, or perform some other type of occult sorcery to make it shine.

Well, I was too stubborn, lazy, arrogant, or all 3 to bother with all that mess, so I grilled these in the manner I am accustomed to, for 2 minutes per side, on the Big Green Egg, with a few chunks of cherry wood for flavor. I topped them with some mushrooms sauteed in duckfat with garlic and sesame seeds, finished with balsamic.

Let the picture serve as evidence. This was almost as tender and every bit as delicious as any commercial ribeye I have ever had, but this was healthier, cheaper, and more sustainable.  In fact, I’d say that the fat on this steak was better than any I have ever had. It tasted kind of like clarified butter.

We’ll see how things shape up with leaner cuts, but for now, my old tricks are still working, and this was a great opener for the long season of beef to come.

Cheers!

Buying Half A Cow

Good thing we have 2 freezers. This is only 1/3 of the meat!

Chances are, you’ve heard of the health benefits of pastured (grass-fed) beef versus commercial, grain-fed meat by now. If not, then in a nutshell, beef from steers fed grass their entire lives has an omega 3:6 ratio similar to salmon. It also has way more CLA, more nutrients, and is almost assuredly prefaced by a more humane lifestyle for the animal. For more info, check Mark’s Daily Apple.

Anyhow, you have also probably inferred that the price of such superior meat would be higher, and in fact you would be correct. Grass-fed steaks at Whole foods are in excess of $20/lb. Even grass-fed ground beef at Trader Joes is $6/lb. Ouch. It became clear that to pursue this lifestyle would require some cost reduction strategy.

Bulk is usually the way to go for these types of operations. I buy coconut water 4 cases at a time when it goes on sale at Amazon Warehouse Deals, and so I started looking around for where I could buy a LOT of grass-fed beef at a time. I had heard of people buying whole and part cows before, but it always seemed to outrageous and inaccessible that I never considered it. Well, folks, it’s not. It’s really quite easy, and I’m going to walk you through the entire process.

Here are some facts up front. Some animals are grass-fed, but “grain finished” to fatten them up for slaughter. You want grass-fed, grass finished. You can buy cows by the quarter (100lbs) half (200lbs) or whole (400lbs). These are rough numbers for yield after processing. You usually pay for the weight of the cow before processing.

Anyway, first, I looked for a local farm, because who wants to pay hundreds of dollars in shipping? Mark’s Daily Apple and Eat Wild both have state-by-state listings of farms that have pastured animals. As you may have guessed, a lot of these farms are small operations, and their websites, if they even have one, are usually not e-commerce ready. Be prepared to pick up the phone or email.

I found Fox Hill Farm in Ancramdale NY, about 3 hours away from us, and sent Larry a quick inquiry about buying a lot of beef. He promptly sent me back an email detailing all the costs of various options, the lifestyle and conditions the animals enjoy, and how the whole process works. I decided to go with the half cow because you get a bit of all the cuts instead of just the front or rears.

Once that was decided on, it was onto the fun part. Larry had me call up the processor and tell him exactly how I wanted the animal cut. I got to choose what was ground, how thick steaks were, that I wanted all the offal and suet, what to slice thin for sandwich meat and what to leave as roasts. I had full control because, after all, I did own that entire half animal. I also opted for and recommend vac-pacs instead of butcher paper because a. it lasts for up to 3 years frozen, and b. you can see the meat.

The whole process took about 3 weeks. 2 weeks to hang and age the carcass, then 1 week to cut it up, package, and arrange to drive and pick it up. Larry met me and I loaded over 200lbs of beef into my car. It was awesome.

So back the initial intent of this plan – cost. Well, the total price per-lb of meat was around $7. Half of that was ground beef and half was steak, and that weight isn’t including the offal or suet. The ground beef costs the same as it does at Whole Foods, but the steaks are cheaper by a factor of 3 or more. Plus, its truly local, humane, and I got to choose all the butchering. Not bad.

If you’re serious about meat and health, this is something you should definitely look into. It’s easier than you think. A quarter cow would probably be slightly more per lb, and a whole cow a little less. Go in on it with some friends, coworkers, or fly solo. It’s a true food lovers experience.

Stay tuned for a LOT of beef posts.

Cheers!

 

Duck Confit & Runny Eggs for Breakfast Oh My!

Confit cured with allspice, anise seed, meyer lemon peel, schezuan peppercorns, and cardamom. Sous vide at 176 for 10 hours, and crisped up in a hot pan.

Encore Performance

The hedgehog mushrooms and steak combo was so good, we had to do it again...

Sirloin With Hedgehog Mushrooms & Cauliflower-Fennel Puree

H and I are buying 1/2 of a local, organic grassfed cow. Until that’s done aging, I decided to give grain-fed marbling one last hurrah… and boy was it decadent.

I started by picking out two of the best looking steaks I could find. Wagyu-calibur, at $6.49/lb (Yep!). I also saw some hedgehog mushrooms, which look kind of like chanterelles, and since mushrooms and steak are always a winning combo, quickly had a meal going in my head.

I seared the steaks with salt and pepper in my grill pan over medium-high heat for exactly 3 minutes per side, while I worked on the mushrooms.

For those, I first melted about a tablespoon and a half each of ghee and duckfat in a pan over medium heat, then dropped in the mushrooms, making sure not to crowd them. After about 5 minutes, I added a generous few sprigs worth of fresh thyme, 4 minced cloves of garlic, a pinch of salt, and – secret ingredient time – a generous dusting of porcini mushroom powder.

Porcinis are kind of like truffles in their intense umami mouth-feel, and since I tasted a hedgehog mushroom prior to adding this stuff, I knew they could use a little help. 5 minutes later, I finished the mushrooms with a quick drizzle of REALLY nice balsamic vinegar. This stuff is like $50 a bottle at Williams-Sonoma (luckily it was a gift).

After final taste and seasoning with salt and pepper, what we had was possibly the richest, most umami-concentrated explosion of flavor ever. I dumped the whole contents of the pan over the steaks, then put them in the warming drawer to rest and marry all the flavors.

Then I started the puree. This was nothing fancy, but it worked brilliantly as a mop for the intense flavors and juices that would soon go over top. I used my previous technique but I omitted the nutmeg and garlic and added 2 small bulbs of fennel.

This was a nice, neutral bed, and when I finally took those very well rested steaks out, you wold have thought they were cooked sous-vide. What was probably VERY rare at the onset settled into a brilliant top-bottom medium rare that really exemplified the importance of resting steak. Wish I had a pic.

So long grain fed steak. I’ll miss you!

Smoked Bone-In Lamb Breast & Green Egg Smoking Tips

Let’s get this out of the way up front: this is the best lamb I have ever had in my life, period, no question about it, and by a wide margin to boot. One bite of these ribs is a life changing, mind altering experience that will have you reconsidering all other proteins. Yeah. FULL POST

Fried Catfish ‘n’ Greens

This was so comforting you wouldn’t even believe it was fully paleo. I was desperate to find a protein for dinner and I saw some catfish on sale so I decided to give it a shot. Now, in a former life, I would have breaded this in corn meal, fried it in up in lard, and slapped it on a buttery roll with aioli for a delectable poboy. Then I would have been sedentary for a good long while. Ah, the good ol’ days…

I started by dusting the fillets with almond meal and some seasoning salt. Any salt with celery in it will do the trick for the right flavor profile – even Old Bay.  Then I doused them with some coconut aminos, which is basically a coconut soy sauce replacement. After that, I dusted on more almond meal and patted it in. On the other side, I did the same thing, but used aleppo pepper instead of the seasoning salt, to add some heat.

I poured a good amount (about 1/4″ deep) of rapeseed oil in a skillet over medium heat, shook off the fish, and fried for about 4 minutes per side. When done (a fork stuck in comes out warm), let them cool on a cookie rack so they don’t get soggy. On to the greens.

The greens added a delightfully sweet and smoky accent that played off the fish really really well. I sliced some beef bacon (any bacon will do) and sauteed with a couple tbs of ghee and a small chopped onion. When that was nice and caramelized, I added in a massive handful each of arugula and mache. Spinach would work too, as would collard greens, but those (collards) would need to be braised.

When everything was just wilted, I added a few dashes of hotsauce for acid, and plated alongside the fish. Big. Huge. Flavors. Please try this one if you like catfish – it’s not a paleo hackjob in the slightest.

Cheers!